- Cosmetic Surgery
- Minor Ops
Friday, February 22, 2019
According to Global Data, this figure is predicted to rise to £26.7bn by 2022.
Non-surgical treatments such as dermal fillers and Botox are rising in popularity as Britons spend around £2.75bn a year on injectable treatments.
Product innovations, ingredients, social media and the quest for slowing down the effects of the ageing process are some of the factors driving the growth, with consumers dramatically increasing their annual spend on the latest lotions, potions, treatments and technology to enhance, refresh, perfect their appearance, reduce the visible signs of ageing and improve their confidence.
The cosmetics industry is science-led with a quarter of cosmetics improved or redeveloped in response to changes in consumer lifestyles and environmental issues. However, with these changes, new research and product launches come confusion. It can be a minefield navigating the latest trending ingredients and treatments on the shelves and in the clinics.
Consultant Dermatologist Dr Susan Mayou, who co-founded the British Cosmetic Dermatology Group, leads the expert dermatology team at the Cadogan Clinic. Recognised as a leader and an inspiration in the dermatology world, Dr Mayou explains all you need to know about cosmetic dermatology and gives an insight into some of the most effective, evidence-based treatments available.
Cosmetics are products intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, brushed or sprayed onto the face, hair or body. Whether for cleansing, beautifying, enhancing or altering the appearance, cosmetics do not affect the structure or function of the skin.
Cosmetics are superficial rather than therapeutic and include products such as makeup, hair or skincare products. Moisturisers, cleansers, toners, bath products, shampoos, hair sprays and serums, antiperspirants, perfumes, fake tanning products, toothpaste, lip balms and nail polishes and are all defined as cosmetics.
Cosmeceuticals is a term that was coined 25 years ago by Dr Albert Kligman, a revered dermatologist responsible for developing the topical acne medicine Retin-A and bringing a scientific base to cosmetic dermatology.
Cosmeceuticals have medical properties and the term bridges cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. They are applied externally to the skin and are designed to improve skin function through the reversal of the ageing process and help with specific skin issues and concerns.
Cosmeceuticals are scientifically-produced products, containing biologically active ingredients and are required to meet rigid chemical, physical and medical standards.
When cosmeceuticals are applied topically to the skin, these active ingredients reach deeper into the dermal layers to make changes to the structure.
Cosmeceuticals contain more active ingredients and in much higher ingredients than cosmetics and penetrate deeper into the epidermis layer of the skin delivering more visible benefits for a longer period of time. Examples include reducing the severity of acne, brightening dull and dehydrated skin, promoting a healthier complexion, reducing the appearance of ageing such as fine lines and wrinkles, improving uneven skin tone and reducing the appearance of sun damage.
Common active ingredients in cosmeceuticals include:
What it is:
HA is a naturally occurring component of the skin and is present in connective tissue throughout the body. As we age, our ability to produce HA declines, which accelerates and exposes the visible signs of ageing. Age-related effects of hyaluronic depletion include sagging of the skin, the development of fine lines and wrinkles and increased skin dryness.
+ Hydrates the skin
+ Enables skin to retain moisture
+ Helps repair the skin
+ Provides elasticity
+ Strengthens the skin’s barrier to achieve softer, smoother and younger looking skin
Botanicals: Green Tea Extract, Tea Tree Oil and Aloe Vera
What is it:
Botanicals are made from plant leaves, bark, root or flowers and can help improve the health and integrity of the skin.
+ Botanicals can reduce inflammation of the skin and address concerns of oily skin, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation
+ Green Tea Extract is anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory helping to improve skin elasticity and firmness
+ Tea Tree Oil can help reduce acne-causing bacteria on the skin and inflammation
+ Aloe Vera helps to hydrate the skin and is wound-healing. It can be used to effectively heal eczema, psoriasis and acne
Retinol (Vitamin A)-
What it is:
Retinol is a fat-soluble vitamin which speeds up the skin’s cell turnover, helping to keep it firm and healthy. It helps reduce pigmentation, sun damage, fine lines and scarring. Retinol also helps produce collagen, helping to slow down the ageing process.
+ Helps regenerate skin cells
+ Increases the production of collagen, minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
+ Reduces the size of pores
+ Improves skin texture
+ Reduces hyperpigmentation
+ Assists with the formation of healthy blood vessels
+ Removes dead skin cells
Amino Acids (Peptides)-
What it is:
Amino Acids are the building blocks that make-up proteins in our skin, such as collagen.
Collagen is responsible for plumping our skin and gives it firmness. Collagen depletes as part of the natural ageing process as well as a result of sun damage and stress, causing the formation of wrinkles. As collagen breaks down with ageing, peptides are formed, which signal to the skin that it is damaged and needs to create more collagen. Peptides play a vital role in the biological processes of our body. They are very small, enabling them to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin.
+ Stimulates the production of collagen to help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
+ Stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid
+ Reduces the production of oil
+ Acts as a moisturiser-binding agent
What it is:
Vitamin B cannot be retained by the body.
In cosmeceuticals, Vitamin B brightens and rejuvenates the skin and helps to address concerns such as an oily or dry complexion and pigmentation.
+ Reduces dry, flakey skin
+ Helps reduce the appearance of fine lines
+ Vitamin B3 is an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent that helps to increase the production of fatty acids and ceramides, key components of the skin’s outer barrier. It can be effective in treating acne and reducing signs of sun damage
+ Improves water retention from the outer layers to improve the barrier function and reduce dehydration, making the skin less susceptible to dryness, redness and environmental damage
What it is:
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a water-soluble vitamin, meaning the body struggles to absorb it. Vitamin C helps protect the skin against free radicals. As the body ages, Vitamin C levels decrease, however including it with a daily skin care regime helps protect against collagen degradation.
+ Prevents the depletion of collagen
+ Reduces inflammation of the skin and redness
+ Assists in protecting the skin again damage from free radicals caused by UV exposure
+ Addresses skin pigmentation and uneven skin tone
It is important to note that active ingredients play a key role in transforming the complexion. For optimum results and to address specific skincare concerns it’s advisable to consult a dermatologist who will be able to recommend the most effective products, combinations and complementary treatments to achieve optimum results
Botox has been used in medicine for over 50 years and has been subject to both celebration and criticism. Discovered by accident in the 1800s, Botox has been developed and refined over the last two centuries, first being used to treat strabismus (cross-eyes) in the 70s and has been used for cosmetic treatments since 2002. It is now one of the most performed non-surgical procedures in the world treating a myriad of medical and cosmetic concerns.
Facial injections such as Botox are most commonly used cosmetically on the face to address the signs of ageing. The most popular areas for treatment include the frown lines, forehead and wrinkles around the eyes. Botox can also be used to address other concerns such as brow position and shape, gummy smile, jowls, skin bands on the neck and can produce nose lift, treat nasal flaring and reverse a downwards smile.
Botox works by temporarily blocking nerve signals to certain muscles around the injection site. Overactivity of the facial muscles over time leads to deep wrinkles and as we age, the facial muscles begin to sag and fine lines and wrinkles begin to appear. This is the result of facial expressions, sun damage and lifestyle factors such as smoking, which can exacerbate the severity. Botox relaxes the muscles, smooths the lines, improves the texture of the skin and gives a more youthful appearance.
Whilst Botox is the most common facial injection (used within 90% of the treatments) it is a brand name and other product types include Dysport and Azzalure. The brand used will depend on the preference of the practitioner and the area being treated.
Facial injections are relatively painless, there are minimal side effects and rare cases of allergic reactions. It is imperative that all patients receive a comprehensive consultation prior to the treatment to ensure they are a suitable candidate for the treatment. It is also vital that patients research their medical practitioner thoroughly, to ensure they are getting a qualified professional who has expertise in the area they wish to be treated.
Botox lasts for approximately 4-6 months for facial treatments and between 6-12 months for hyperhidrosis.
The Cadogan Clinic has an esteemed team of highly trained dermatologists and cosmetic surgeons who perform facial injections. Each medical professional has an in-depth knowledge of facial anatomy, skin structure and surgical finesse and takes great pride in achieving the very best results for each patient.
Dermal fillers are small injections that add volume and structure to soft tissue, plumping the skin and filling in lines and wrinkles. Dermal fillers are most commonly used to treat areas on the face such as nasolabial folds (lines running between the nose and the corner of the mouth), melomental lines (the drool lines), tear trough, temples, cheeks, jawline and are also very popular for adding volume to the lips. Additionally, they can be used for rejuvenating ageing hands, the décolleté and for the correction of scars.
As we age, our bodies ability to produce collagen and elastin is reduced, which causes the skin to start sagging, losing tone and definition and wrinkles begin to form. Dermal fillers present a non-surgical option to patients wishing to restore volume, define contours and rejuvenate the skin, addressing the signs of ageing without resorting to surgery.
Dermal fillers are a non-permanent treatment which last between around 12 months before they gradually break down in the body. They give very natural results and are dissolvable for patients wishing to have them removed.
There are several types of dermal fillers available including hyaluronic acid, collagen, synthetic, autologous fibroblast transplantation and Polylactic acid based fillers. Each contains different compounds and active ingredients and the particular product will be determined by the area being treated, the quality of the skin, desired results and the preference of the medical practitioner.
The treatment is relatively painless, depending on the area being treated (lips can be more sensitive) and there is no downtime. If swelling, tenderness, or bruising occurs around the injection site, it is normally very mild and will disappear within a few days.
As we age, our skin loses volume and definition, elasticity begins to decline which can result in wrinkles, fine lines, dropping and sagging skin. Pigmentation can also become more prevalent with sun exposure, environmental damage exasperating the condition as we age.
Whilst many people embrace growing old gracefully, others like seek non-surgical treatments to help reduce the visible signs of ageing, to maintain a youthful complexion and appearance.
There is a vast array of treatments designed to address various age-related skin concerns to enhance, refresh and restore confidence. PDT light therapy, IPL laser, ultrasounds, chemical peels, micro-needling are just some of the evidence-based therapeutic treatments designed to achieve natural-looking results that help restore a youthful appearance.
IPL is a technology which is used to perform many cosmetic and medical procedures. Hair removal, pigmentation, sun damage, thread veins and acne can all be addressed and treated with IPL.
The skin must not be tanned at the time of the treatment, maybe red immediately following and areas of pigmentation will darken over the next few days and then peel.
Improvements are normally visible after three weeks. Courses are normally prescribed with optimal results achieved with a series of 3-5 treatments carried out at 3-4 week intervals.
Fractional Laser Resurfacing is an FDA approved laser technology that treats the area of concern whilst leaving the untreated skin intact. This treatment improves the texture of the skin, wrinkles, scars, sun spots, pigmentation and enlarged pores.
The treatment works by penetrating laser energy into the skin to remove the very outer layers. The body’s natural healing process creates new, healthy cells to replace the areas of affected tissue, resulting in a healthier, smoother, younger-looking appearance.
Ultherapy is a “non-surgical facelift” which uses ultrasound energy to deliver a collagen-boosting treatment to tighten and lift the skin. Ultherapy is used to treat the face, neck and décolleté promoting a fresh, healthy and youthful appearance.
The practitioner will apply an ultrasound gel to the treatment around and then place the ulthera ultrasound imaging device to determine the area to deliver the energy. Small amounts of energy are delivered beneath the skin’s layers and collagen-building commences, as the body responds to the heating of the tissues by the ultrasound energy.
Depending on the area being treated, the treatment will last between 30-90 mins and there is no downtime. Visible results vary from person to person; some people notice immediate improvements and all patients will see effective results over a 2-3 month period.
Medically formulated chemical peels are used to exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin by removing layers of the skin (top, middle or deeper dependent on the strength of the peel) to stimulate the growth of fresh, new skin cells.
Chemical peels can be used on the face, neck and hands and tailored to address skin concerns including age spots, uneven skin tone, wrinkles, fine lines, sun damage, scarring, acne, pigmentation and improve the appearance and quality of the skin.
Skin can be temporarily more sensitive following a chemical peel and it is advisable that sun protection is used to protect the skin.
A course of treatments may be recommended to achieve optimum results, dependent upon the skin concern, skin type and quality. Redness and flaking may occur following the treatment, subsiding after 3-7 days before results are visible.
Micro-needling skin therapy is an effective, natural beauty treatment to help minimise the signs of ageing and improve skin quality and appearance. It is a minimally invasive anti-ageing treatment which uses tiny needles to create micropunctures, kick-starting the natural healing cascade of the skin. These tiny contact punctures promote cell renewal as the skin triggers the production of collagen and elastin, achieving plumper skin with a dewy, youthful glow.
Based on the natural rejuvenating power of the skin, this organic therapy can be used to treat a multitude of skin conditions including acne scarring, fine lines, wrinkles, sun damage, pigmentation, age spots, enlarged pores and tear troughs (those dreaded eye bags!) It also has the ability to tighten loose skin and improve the tone and texture of the skin. Whilst micro-needling is most commonly used on the face, it can also be used to treat other areas of the body such legs, buttocks, chest and back, achieving great results for concerns such as stretch marks and scars. Micro-needling can improve the skin’s ability to absorb products such as serums and moisturisers.
Micro-needling can be personalised to the specific needs of the patient and can be used in conjunction with topical vitamin products to achieve maximum results. Three to five treatments are recommended at 4-6 week intervals to reap the full benefits of micro-needling.
The skin may feel tender and patients may experience swelling or redness, which will subside 2-3 days after the treatment. Flaking may also occur as the skin refreshes and results are visible results within 2 weeks after the treatment.
Choosing a practitioner
There is a multitude of products and treatments designed to deliver various enhancing, rejuvenating and anti-ageing effects. It is advisable to seek professional advice from a medical expert in order to achieve optimum results tailored to your individual needs. It is also imperative that all individuals do thorough research before embarking on any injectable treatment such as Botox or dermal fillers to ensure the practitioner has both the qualifications and the experience to deliver the procedure.
Below is a guideline of key questions to assist patients when researching a medical practitioner: