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Thursday, November 1, 2018
We are constantly searching for harder-working scientifically based cosmeceutical products that do more than simply soothing or plumping skin. One of the key ingredients dominating the current market is acids. However, with the array of acids found in products it can be difficult to decide how to add an acid to your skin care regime- in particular choosing the right acid for your skin concerns.
Below is an overview of popular acids and their role in addressing skin concerns to help navigate the arena of acids:
Our skin naturally 'turns over' monthly, shedding the dull top layer of dead cells, to reveal newer healthy cells below. AHAs are water soluble molecules that work on the surface of the skin to loosen and release dead skin cells on the top layers of the skin. This increased rate of exfoliation of the skin surface and promotes cell turnover and improving the texture and clarity of skin boosting skin thickness and stimulating collagen production. These products are useful for rough or scaling skin and improving fine lines and pigmentation. These agents can be irritating and make your skin more photosensitive so it is vital that you add in a daily high factor SPF to protect your skin. People with darker skin tones should take extra care as excess peeling can cause hyperpigmentation.
Examples of Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA): Glycolic acid- smallest of the AHA molecules; Lactic acid; Mandelic acid
BHAs are also effective chemical exfoliants which can loosen the upper layers of the skin to smooth texture. They are also oil soluble and able to penetrate into pores, taking this exfoliant activity to a deeper level. They are also antibacterial and anti-inflammatory. These features make them fantastic for people with acne prone skin.
Examples of Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA): Salicylic acid (SA) and Lipohydroxy acid (LHA)
Ageing and skin texture
+ Glycolic 10 renew overnight SkinCeuticals
+ Alpha beta ultra gentle daily peel Dr Dennis Gross
Easy to use pads
+ Resurfacing glycolic pads Malin and Goetz
+ Revitalift bright reveal brightening peel pads L'Oreal
Acne prone skin
+ Efflaclar duo La roche Posay - Contains LHA a better tolerated derivative of SA. This is a fantastic pore un-blocker and really helps with commonly experienced 'under the skin' spots and comedones.
+ Sébium Bioderma
+ Even better clinical dark spot corrector Clinique
This is a natural substance found in all living organisms in high concentrations in soft connective tissue. In the skin it hydrates the skin by holding in water, it also cushions against mechanical or chemical damage. Over time through ageing or exposure to environmental factors naturally residing HA is degraded and destroyed. HA in cosmetic products improves skin texture and hydration and plumps the skin reducing the appearance of fine lines.
+ Hyalu B5 La Roche Posay - Contains 2 sizes of HA molecules- the larger of which plumps the surface layer of the skin, the smaller penetrating more deeply to increase volume.
A vitamin A derivative that is widely researched and a proven skincare ingredient. It promotes cell turnover and improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and uneven skin tone. I recommend these products to all my patients with concerns about ageing skin or post acne scarring. They can be irritating and take time to 'get used to'- start with lower concentrations of retinol and increase as you are able. Also try 'short contact therapy'- leaving product on your skin for a few hours and rinsing off, gradually building up to leaving on overnight. Don't forget to add a daily high factor SPF into your daily skincare routine.
+ Retinol 0.5 SkinCeuticals
+ Retinol 1.0 SkinCeuticals
Antioxidant support for cells and boosts collagen and brighten skin pigmentation. Used with high factor SPF helps to repair UV damage. Key anti-ageing product. L-AA is volatile, so exposure to light, heat or air oxidises it so look for dark bottles and airless pumps.
+ C E Ferulic SkinCeuticals
+ Vichy Liftactive vitamin C skin brightening skin corrector
Derived from mushrooms kojic acid is used as a skin lightening agent through its effects on tyrosinase proteins ability to make melanin.
+ Phyto + SkinCuticals - Contains Kojic acid and hyaluronic acid to calm skin
+ Mela-D pigment control La Roche Posay - Contains kojic acid and glycolic acid
+ Discoloration defense SkinCeuticals
Kojic acid and tranexamic acid to lighten skin discoloration
For a consultation with Borysiewicz please call the team on 0808 250 6829